Thursday, November 27, 2008

Porter Tsenge and his friends are the soldiers' truest friends

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Smiling Buddhas

At a crevice, we stopped and were being lined up for the crossing. But Tsenge and his friends had already crossed it and were sitting under a lazy sun, amusedly watching us, smiled benignly, chatting between themselves. They cross small crevices like hares. Our team took nine hours to cover just eight kilometres on the first day. The trek had started after prayers at 8:30 am and we reached the first camp at five in the evening, with no strength left even to drink water or have food. But Tsenge was still brimming with his smile as he handed over Mukunda's belongings to him.

Tsenge belongs to Khardung village, just below the worlds highest motorable pass, Khardung La (18,380) ft. Most of the porters belong to Laddakh. The army doctors explained that being locals, they are any time stronger than anyone coming from the plains, no matter how well the plainspersons are trained. One senior doctor said: “When extreme conditions in Siachen do not allow a person to carry more than eight kilograms, the porters carry 20 kgs with ease because their body is naturally acclimatised."

Sonam was on his maiden trip to the glacier. The other porters said that while Sonam is just 18, Tsenge – who too had started his trips to glacier at 18 – is today those many years older than Sonam. When we asked Sonam if he was frightened, he appeared a bit disturbed. He said, “The glacier doesn’t hurt anyone. So why should I be scared?” Well, who’d say he is not a veteran, for when we reached a small but deep crevice, Sonam simply jumped across and started helping the others too. And all the while he and others sang Laddakhi or Nepali songs.

The porters earn Rs 300 per day if they work at the base camp and Rs 450 per day once they climb the glacier. “It is these porters because of whom death toll on the glacier has come down,” a senior official confided. From collecting ice to be melted to 'make' water for drinking or ablution, to carrying heavy loads, cooking and serving meals, the porters make life livable for the soldiers, which leaves them free to ward off the enemy.

Sonam is the eldest son in his family, and plans to educate his younger brother in a good school in Leh. Tsenge wishes his son to join the army and serve the nation. And Utup, one of the porters, says, “If Pakistan attacks us again, I will not hesitate to fight, and I'll fight for free. And then he smiles too, the youngest and the oldest Smiling Buddhas up at 15,000 feet!


For more articles, Click on IIPM Article.
Source :
IIPM Editorial, 2008
An Initiative of IIPM, Malay Chaudhuri and
Arindam Chaudhuri (Renowned Management Guru and Economist).


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